FAQ Danelectro, DiPinto, Silvertone Guitar, Bass, Parts & Accessories

Q. I need to return a pedal that is under warranty. How do I contact the Danelectro Company?

A: For warranty issues call the Evets Corporation in the U.S. at 888-643-8950 or 805-389-4605. To return items under warranty send your item along with your name and return address to:

Q: It seems the rosewood saddle bridge on Danelectro has become bent/distorted. Should I replace it with a new one?

A: Bending or curving of these bridges seems to be common. Unless you are having problems with string buzzing you might as well leave it on. Many players replace the rosewood bridge with the adjustable SB-5800 bridge as it will not bend, makes stringing easier and keeps the guitar in tune better and allows for intonation.

A: No. The SB-5800 bridge will not accomodate the larger gauge of baritone strings. Unfortunately, Danelectro baritone bridges are not currently available.

Q: What are some of the differences between a 59-DC first reissue manufactured between 1998-2001 and a '59 Dano second reissue from 2007?

A: Here's what makes the 2007 '59 Dano different from the first reissue 59-DC. Unlike the first reissues that were made in Korea, the 2007 '59's were made in China. It is approximately one pound heavier at 6.6 versus 5.5 lbs; has somewhat hotter/louder pickups; different shape headstock; upgraded (Gotoh style) tuners; fully adjustable and intonable bridge; wider/thicker neck; upgraded toggle switch; input jack is now on the side rather than on the front; single volume and tone controls have replaced the concentric controls; matte pickups and hardware as opposed to shiny chrome; matte finish; aged looking side binding tape and seal pickguard for a vintage look.

A: As of this writing, only the 2007 and upcoming 2008 models are made in
China. The 1998-2001 reissues, such as the DC-3 you inquired about were made
in Korea. Some of the 1998 59-DC's and 56-U2's were made in Indonesia.
Regardless of where any of these were made, for the most part all are nice quality with decent factory set-ups using 10 gauge strings across the board on the guitars.

Contrary to the perception of Chinese made guitars, in my humble opinion the quality control on these newer Danos is as good as the earlier reissues. They are however, very different guitars in many respects. Let's face it, you can't compare a vintage Dano made in Neptune, New Jersey with any Dano that's been made since!

Q. I own a 59-DC and the side tape is lifting up especially around the cutaway areas. Is there anyway I can repair this without cutting the tape or replacing it?

A. On the vintage Danos the side binding tape was necessary to hide a seam in the body. On the newer models it's strictly decorative and keeps that vintage vibe going. On these newer Danos, inparticular the 59-DC first reissue, the problem with the side binding tape lifting or bubbling is usually caused by tape shrinkage due to changes in temperature and/or humidity. This is of course strictly an aesthetic issue. Nevertheless it's annoying so you'll want to remedy the situation.

Try taking a blow dryer and heating the tape, being careful not to overheat and melt it. While the tape is warming, begin pressing it down while at the same time rubbing it with your fingers. Keep up this pressing/rubbing motion until the tape cools a bit. Sometimes it helps to put a soft cloth between your fingers and the guitar while rubbing. If there was enough glue on the tape originally it may stay down, although this may only prove to be a temporary fix. Tape usually starts popping up again especially if the guitar gets cold.

If the blow dryer procedure doesn't have a lasting effect, try lifting up the tape and applying a very thin layer of super glue to the back of the tape using a toothpick or glue syringe. Do not spread the super glue right to the edge of the tape as it will get on the guitar when you press the tape down to affix it. (Note: Do not use expandable type glues as this may cause bumps under the tape). With the glue spread evenly on the tape, press down on the tape while simutaneously rubbing making sure you don't super glue your fingers to the body! Keep up this pressing/rubbing moting until the glue has bonded. Also, be careful not to allow any of the glue to leak out onto the body. You will never be able to remove dried super glue!

If the above repair does not produce satisfactory results you'll probably want to replace the tape.

A: On the newer Danelectro models (1998-present), the neck must be removed for truss rod adjustment. Turn truss rod adjustment only 1/4 turn over a 24 hour period to avoid damage to the neck.

A: There's no way to confirm an exact manufacturing date on a DC-3 or a 59-DC, 56-U2, Hodad, Mod 6 or any of the first reissue series. Curiously, there was no valid serial number system. The sticker that was applied on the back of the neck which appears to be a serial number, meant nothing. It was like a fake serial number! The first reissues were made between 1998-2001. Some prototypes of these models were produced earlier in 1997. The DC-3, like the Mod 6 and the Hodad can not be considered re-issues as they have no predecessors. They were actually new models.

This intonatable bridge has individual saddles. Each saddle has two screws, one for height adjustment and one which locks the saddle in place and allows the saddle to be positioned for correct intonation. It also seems to help sustain and resonance if you screw the central fixing screw hard down so the back of the bridge sits on the top of the body.

Installation tips: The two flathead screws go under the top of the bridge and NOT through the bridge holes. Bottom (roundhead) screw goes through bridge hole. Screw in the two flathead top screws so that the underside of the bridge is a minimum of 1/16 inch distance away from the body of the guitar. Start bottom side adjustment of bridge so that you can slide a medium thickness pick between the bridge and the body. Fine tune your installation adjustments from here.

Tip for adjusting the bridge: The locking screw sits directly under the string so to stop the saddle shooting forward you need to slacken the string before you unlock it. It also seems to help sustain and resonance if you screw the central fixing screw hard down so the back of the bridge sits on the top of the body.

Note: The neck must be removed for truss rod adjustment. Turn truss rod adjustment only 1/4 turn over a 24 hour period to avoid damage to the neck.

Q. I recently purchased a Danoblaster bass with chorus effects but the effects button works intermittently. It cuts in and out and if you hold it down it seems to work fine. Any suggestions on a fix?

A: For warranty questions, parts for pedals or parts not available at DanGuitars.com, please call Danelectro Customer Service @ 888-643-8950. To contact the Evets Corporation directly, call 805-389-4605.